Shockles Line Snubber™ Selection & Uses
SHOCKLES® are available in three lengths (12", 18" and 24") and two resistances (FORCE/2 and FORCE/3).
The best length of SHOCKLE for your use will depend on the amount of stretch you required. SHOCKLES are pretty versatile and more than one size will work for a specific application. In addition, you can always set a specific amount of stretch by making the safety line shorter than 2X maximum length.
With SHOCKLES You have six choices of length and stiffness. Your SHOCKLE choice will obviously depend on your use and there are no wrong choices.
If you just need moderate shock absorption (boom tie-down, small boat dock lines, etc.) you’ll want to use an F2. These take around 100 pounds of pressure/weight to stretch them. If you just need a little stretch (or if you want to make sure that there isn’t too much stretch) you’ll want to use a short 12” SHOCKLE. If you want significant stretch you’ll use a longer one.
For applications that demand a very stiff SHOCKLE (asymmetrical spinnaker tack, anchor snubber, boom preventer, dock line snubber on large boats) you’ll want to use the stiffer F3.
Sometimes you’ll want extra protection and shock absorbsion. We’ve designed the SHOCKLE system so that you can double—and even triple—up your SHOCKLES. For instance, you can rig two F2 SHOCKLES side-by-side to double the stretch tension required (it now becomes 200#). Or rig an F2 and F3 side-by-side.
Also, you can create a progressive shock absorbsion system by rigging two different length SHOCKLES side-by-side. For instance, when tying your boat to two pier posts fore and aft, we’d suggest rigging a 24” SHOCKLE side-by-side with an 18” SHOCKLE on either end of your boat. In this way, the shorter SHOCKLE will take up the initial pull and keep your boat secure and shock free. But if you get a big pull (from passing waves or a gust of wind) the pull will also come onto the second SHOCKLE. We’ve used this technique with great success on our 42’ catamaran (using pairs of F3 SHOCKLES).
We’ve designed the SHOCKLE system so that there is 70% stretch for each size yet only 6” difference in length between the three sizes (12”, 18” and 24”). When tying a boat you can even use SHOCKLES at either end of your lines, as well as in the middle, The lighter F2 SHOCKLES will keep the lines snug while an additional F3 will add complete shock absorbsion if needed.
If you would like any assistance in choosing the right size or strength please send an email to info@shockles.com and let us know the specifics about your boat and the planned usage.
Shockles Selection Matrix |
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12 Inch |
18 Inch |
24 Inch |
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| Anchor Chain | X |
X |
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| Boom Preventer | X |
X |
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| Boom Tiedown | X |
X |
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| Dinghy Towing | X |
X |
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| Docking | X |
X |
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| Halyard Tiedown | X |
X |
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| Jibsheet | X |
X |
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| Mooring Line | X |
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| Spinnaker Tack | X |
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| Tiller Lash | X |
X |
X |
Boating & Marine Uses for Shockles
ASYMETRICAL SPINNAKER TACK (12” F3)
The very best way to keep your lightweight spinnaker from blowing out in a gust or when it accidentally luffs. Just rig a 12” Shockle from the tack of the spinnaker and when a big gusts suddenly yanks the sail it won’t have to absorb that huge shock.
BOOM TIE-DOWN (18” F2)
When securing your boom at night, instead of cinching down your main sheet, putting stress on the rigging, boom and hardware, leave the mainsheet loose and rig a Shockle on a line from the boom end to an outboard cleat. Keep the boom silent, still and secure in any conditions.
BOOM PREVENTER (18” F2 or F3)
Rig a Shockle at your boom end or directly on your preventer to take the shock out of an accidental jibe. Instead of your preventer line snapping taught each time the wind slacks or puffs, you can cinch your boom preventer line taught using the Shockle to let the boom regain proper position without any shock or sail deformation.
CINCHING DOWN THE MAIN HALYARD AT NIGHT (12’ or 18” F2)
Rather than releasing the shackle between your main halyard and head of the mainsail each time you lower your sail, simply clip a Shockle onto it and clip the Shockle onto your mast. The Shockle will take the tension off your mainsail grommet as well as help keep your main halyard from slapping against your mast.
TOWING A DINGHY (18” F2)
Most dinghies don’t have a really tough tow ring, especially inflatables. As your dinghy is being towed, the constant shock and snapping of the tow line will eventually pull something loose. Simply rig a Shockle on one end, or in the middle, or your tow line and the Shockle will take all the pressure as your dinghy drags and surges behind your boat.
DOCKING LINES (12” TO 18” F2 or F3)
Clip a Shockle into your docking lines with a clove hitch at each carabiner to keep your boat snug against your fenders. Just cinch your docking lines tight as you usually would; as they gradually loosen up over time (which they will always do as they stretch), the Shockle will keep them snug.
ANCHOR SNUBBER (18” OR 24” F3)
Rig a Shockle on your anchor chain or rode to prevent the jarring shock on your anchor, cleats, windlass and leads when a sudden gust hits your boat while at anchor. Use clove hitches (on your rode) or clip directly into anchor chain (may not fit chains smaller that 3/8”) leaving 12” to 18” of slack in between.
CINCHING DINGHY TO DAVITS (24” F2)
To keep your dinghy from swinging around when it’s up on davits, just clip a Shockle to the bow and stern of it and run them onto the transom of your boat. While a static rope would gradually loosen up over time, the Shockle will keep your dinghy snug against your boat all the time. No more swinging and banging against your boat, especially in rough water.
MID-SHIP JIB LAZY SHEET SHOCK ABSORBER (18” F2 or F3)
When sailing downwind, rig the lazy sheet of your jib to a Shockle that is attached to an outboard cleat. This will give you a bit more sail without the use of a pole, and you won’t risk jerking the cleat off your boat in a gust. This technique works especially well on catamarans or trimarans, or any boat with a wide beam.
